Description: The core of this drum machine is based on an electronic drum stick. Swinging the stick produces drum sounds, specifically three sounds: snare, bass drum, and hi-hat. When the stick is swung, it plays a snare sound. There are two buttons on the stick that, when pressed while swinging, trigger two additional sounds. This setup can be easily connected to a 3-way switch, with the up position corresponding to one button, down to another button, and the middle position functioning like swinging the stick without pressing any button. The circuit utilizes a 555 timer and a 4017 decade counter along with some potentiometers and switches. However, there are glitches that occur, likely due to some switches not being properly grounded for debouncing. The 555 timer is responsible for triggering the drum sounds and advancing the 4017 counter, which sends a pulse through one of the 10 3-way switches to select the specific sound. The sound selection is managed by the 3-way switch. The casing is repurposed from a children's toy, specifically a light box for tracing, which originally contained two lightbulbs and a semi-transparent screen. The built-in battery compartment was modified for the required voltage. The casing was painted white and then spray-painted with a stencil design, followed by a red body and a clear coat finish. Holes for LEDs were included to indicate the current position in the sequence; however, issues arose where the sound played, but the LEDs did not light up, potentially due to insufficient current. Attempts to connect the LEDs in series and parallel were unsuccessful, despite prior success on a breadboard. The project has been delayed due to personal commitments, but circuit bending and building activities have continued. Recently, an Arduino Uno microcontroller was acquired, which, while not directly related to circuit bending, offers significant capabilities. A simple Arduino sequencer project was developed, requiring an Arduino Uno, a breadboard, a speaker, a potentiometer, and wires. The functionality is derived from programming, utilizing the built-in tone generator to read the potentiometer's value and generate tones accordingly. Future plans include repackaging the project to use one or two octaves of a keyboard with a simple pitch bend connected to the motherboard's timing. Despite challenges in achieving desired results, including unsuccessful attempts at low-pass filters and other modifications, the project continues to evolve.
The electronic drum machine described utilizes a combination of basic digital electronics components to create a versatile sound-generating device. The core components include the 555 timer, which operates in astable mode to generate a square wave signal, and the 4017 decade counter, which is used to sequentially select different sound outputs based on the input from the 3-way switch. The 555 timer's output triggers the 4017 counter, allowing it to advance through its ten output states, each corresponding to a different sound.
The two buttons on the drumstick add additional functionality, allowing for sound layering or variation based on the user's interaction. The circuit design must include proper debouncing techniques for the buttons to ensure reliable operation without unintended sound triggering. This can typically be achieved by adding a capacitor in parallel with the switch or by using a software debouncing method if a microcontroller is involved.
The choice of a repurposed toy casing not only provides a functional housing for the components but also presents an opportunity for creative expression through custom painting and design. The integration of LEDs for visual feedback is a valuable addition, enhancing user interaction by indicating the current state of the sequencer. Troubleshooting the LED circuit will require ensuring adequate current supply and verifying the connections, as well as checking the compatibility of the LEDs with the output voltage levels.
The incorporation of an Arduino Uno opens up further possibilities for expanding the functionality of the drum machine. The Arduino can be programmed to create more complex sequences, control multiple outputs, or even interface with other MIDI devices. The use of a potentiometer for pitch bending allows for dynamic sound modulation, which can significantly enhance the musical capabilities of the device.
Overall, this project exemplifies the integration of traditional electronic components with modern microcontroller technology, providing a platform for experimentation and creativity in electronic music production.The core of this drum machine is from an electronic drum stick. You swing the stick and it makes drum sounds. The stick made 3 sounds; Snare, bass drum, and high hat. When you swing the drum stick, it plays a snare sound. There are two buttons on the stick, that when pressed AND the stick is swung, play two more sounds. So this was easy to hook up to a 3-way switch with up as one button, down as another button, and middle was just like swinging the drum stick without pressing a button. I rigged it up to a 555 timer and a 4017 decade counter and some pots and switches, and away it went.
There is still some glitching that happens I think because of some switches which aren`t wired to ground to de-bounce them. The 555 timer triggers the drum sound and advances the 4017. The 4017 sends a pulse through one of 10 3-way switches to hold the particular sound. The sound selection is set with the 3-way switch. I hope that makes sense. The case is from a kids toy (big surprise, I know). It was a light box for tracing. It use to have two lightbulbs inside and a semi-transparent screen. The cool thing about is that it has a battery compartment built in. All I had to do was modify it for the voltage I was using. I just shrunk it down. Easy (yeah right). I painted it up white first and then spray painted a stencil of a fist on top of it. The body was also painted red. The final step for the paint job was to do some clear coat. All in all, a pretty sweet paint job. In this video, you can see holes for the LEDs that will indicate which point in the sequence it`s at.
I am having a heck of a time with that. It seems like, when connected, the sound plays but the LEDs don`t light up. I don`t know if it`s a lack of current or what. I have tried the LEDs in series and in parallel. Neither work now. The joke is, it all worked at one point when it was on a bread board. Upon soldering everything up, everything started changing. I suppose that is the nature of the beast. It has been ages since my last post. So much has happened (Including planning a wedding and getting married). With that said, I have still been circuit bending and building things. Recently, I purchased an Arduino Uno micro-controller. This thing is awesome. It doesn`t have much to do with true circuit bending (I know someone will have a problem with that) but it is insanely powerful. This little Arduino Sequencer project that I have been working on is super simple to build. Really all you need is an Arduino Uno (and a computer to program it with), breadboard, speaker, potentiometer (any value) and some wires.
All of the functionality comes from the programming. The code is simple too. Basiclly, you use the built in tone generator (it`s just a square wave generator) to read the value of a potentiometer and place the value of that the potentiometer into a variable. Then you play a tone based on that value, pause, play another tone, pause, play another, etc. Here is the link to the tutorial that I followed originally. It has some schematics and in depth instructions about how to set it up and how the code works. I want to repackage it using only one (maybe two) of the octaves on the keyboard. I will just use a simple pitch bend (1M pot) connected to the timing of the motherboard to get whatever ocatave leval I am looking for.
The basics for any bend really. The reality, for me anyway, has been a bit of a nightmare. I can`t seem to do anything except volume control. The last few attempts have been low pass filters. I started with a simple RC (Resistor Capacitor circuit) circuit where the resistor was a 10k volume pot in series with the signal out and a. 1uF capacitor branched off to ground. I played with the values of the potentiometer and capacitor until I found something that looked like it would work.
It didn`t really work. I posted some help me I`m an amateur and an idiot posts on an electronics forum. They told me I nee
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